Tag: Ethiopia

Ten Days into the Research Trip, Tigray, Ethiopia, April 2009

Ten Days into the Research Trip, Tigray, Ethiopia, April 2009

Me, sun-burned from a day-trip to Negash and ten days in the harsh Tigrinyan sun, heading back to Mek’ele at the end of the day.

I visited the Negashi mosque and the Bet Ammanuel Maakos (Markos? It’s what the sign says.) Church, which I shall post photos of soon. The headphones are for my iPod, which allows me to listen to iTunesU courses and the Best of CBC Radio’s Ideas podcasts which I downloaded when I still had fast internet. If you are traveling (or even if you aren’t)–I highly recommend both as a great way to pass large blocks of time while educating oneself.

Writing, Marigeta Haile Selassie, Mek’ele, Tigray, Ethiopia, March 2009

Writing, Marigeta Haile Selassie, Mek'ele, Tigray, Ethiopia, March 2009

I normally do not publish photos from my research work, but I have decided to try making them a little more artistic, and will attempt to get some good ones up here.

In this one, Marigeta* Haile Selassie, writing out a short phrase as a demonstration of  pen-technique. Notice that he holds the pen at nearly a 90-degree angle from the page, a position dictated by the nearly-90-degree cut he made of the nib, with a slight angle to allow right-handed writing. He is working on his knee, sitting on a small stool in the corner of his shop, next to the window. The pen is made out of bamboo, two species of which are native to Ethiopia.

*The title, which basically translates as ‘Master,’ refers to having completed a certain level of traditional Church education–‘temhert’–the focus of which is the memorization of Church books. The level above it would be ‘Memhir,’ which means ‘traditional church teacher.’

Abba Mäsälä, Debrä Genet Medhane Alem, Mek’ele, Tigray, Ethiopia, March 2009

Abba Mäsälä, Debrä Genet Medhane Alem, Mek'ele, Tigray, Ethiopia, March 2009

I am in Mek’ele, the capital of Tigray, the Northern province of Ethiopia, interviewing scribes and other manuscript craftsmen. I took the opportunity to visit the treasury of Debrä Genet Medhane Alem monastery, which has a number of deluxe manuscripts presented by Atse (Emperor) Yohannes IV, who brought Mek’ele to prominence by establishing it as his capital (Ethiopia’s capital has changed a number of times). Abba Mäsälä is the treasurer of the monastery, and when he was putting away the books, I asked if I could take a photo of him. He ran upstairs to the treasury, to get his favorite processional cross, before he was ready to pose for a couple quick photos.

Crowd, Timkat (Epiphany), Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, January 2009

Crowd, Timkat (Epiphany), Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, January 2009

Looking out at the crowd in one direction. Though this is likely the largest, as it is the one the Patriarch attends, it is only one of more than twenty celebrations throughout Addis Ababa. The group with the umbrellas accompanies the tabot from several churches, joining the celebration.

Incidentally, the condominium in the upper-right is where I live–you can see my balcony in the photo.

Holy Water Splashing About, Timkat (Epiphany), Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, January 2009

Holy Water Spray #1, Timkat (Epiphany), Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, January 2009

Holy Water Spray #2, Timkat (Epiphany), Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, January 2009

Holy Water Spray #3, Timkat (Epiphany), Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, January 2009

Holy Water Splash, Timkat (Epiphany), Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, January 2009

I have been having computer problems (now hopefully fixed) for the last week, and was unable to post images.

I would like to share a few more images of the holy water being delivered to the crowds (you can see why they use hoses!).

Liq’a Kahənat Bərhanu, Timkat (Epiphany), Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, January 2009

Liq'a Kahənat Bərhanu, Timkat (Epiphany), Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, January 2009

Liq’a Kahənat (Archpriest) Bərhanu is the head of the church printing press, and has acted as my host in Addis. He is in charge of guests for the celebrations, and has gotten me special guest passes for Meskel and Timkat. An archpriest is the highest-ranked married member of the clergy, since only monks may become bishops. They are in charge of important church ministries and higher-level church offices under bishops and archbishops.

Gospels, Timkat (Epiphany), Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, January 2009

Gospels, Timkat (Epiphany), Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, January 2009

At least I assume that the bosses represent the Evangelists, and it is thus the Gospels–I neither asked nor looked too closely. I am not sure of the significance of the red velvet capes–they generally seemed to be worn by those who were directing the choristers and däbtäras–I shall have to ask.